Above: Fuselage built up, with masking tape over the front window cutouts which will be filled with Clearfix after painting. Micro strip being applied around fuselage windows, holes drilled for tailplane spars (metal rod) and 3/16th plasticard applied to wing roots.
Above: Wings assembled with balsa wood spars. Spars are first fixed to top of wing with Cyano (I apply this using the Cyano bottle's nozzle for this job for smaller applications I will use a satay stick [large cocktail stick made from bamboo about 6inches long]. Top and bottom of wing are then held together with strips of tape applied all the way round the wing making sure there is no gaps. The wing is then held vertically and Cyano is dribbled into the inside edges of the wing and then 'zapped' with kicker accelerator. Remember, the tape round the wing must form a seal to stop the Cyano running out onto the table,or, in my case, onto my leg!!!
Master Modeler Glenn Ping in his lair!
Below: Shows the engines, cowlings and homebuilt propellers. the bulges on the cowlings have been fitted and the engines partially painted.
Below:The tailplanes are having their panel lines marked out in pencil. the dent in the stbd. tailplane will be filled in later.
The scribing tools are shown here left, straight edges are plastic strip (Dymo tape is a good alternative). The lines have been scribed and the residue pencil marks have been removed with a drop of turpentine.
Right: Here the gaps between the elevators and tailplanes have been cut with a razor saw and cleaned up with wet and dry paper. Note: all moveable control surfaces are dealt with in the same way.
Below: Scribing the fuselage has now been completed and tailplane fitted. The transparencies masked and yellow applied.
The nose windows will be filled with masking fluid for painting.
Above: The large fuselage to wing gaps have now been filled with two-part epoxy putty, Milliput or any alternative is ideal for this job. Before the putty cures it is shaped and smoothed using a wooden spatula and a wet finger, this gives you less to sand away to finish the joint when the putty cures. Note: on most joints where there is a gap, try to use epoxy putty as it does not melt the thin plastic of the model.
Above: Fitting of the wings to fuselage, this is done over the drawings for the correct fore and aft angle and blocks placed under the wingtips to get the correct dihedral. Spots of cyano are applied to the joint and zapped. When dry the aircraft is turned over and more cyano is applied and again zapped.
Metal rod spars through the fuselage and into the tailplanes add strength to the joints. Note: On small gaps a bead of white wood glue can sometimes be used, smoothed off with a wet finger.
The undercarriage in its rough state before cleaning up.
Above: Now comes the best part for me, the colour scheme.Yellow has been masked.
When masking hard edges apply a coat of Klear (Future) to the edge, this will stop any other colour creeping under the tape, any creeping under the tape is thus done with Klear which is 'clear'----I hope that is clear??!!
Above: Blue is the next colour to go on, as the roundels are quite large on this model so I have decided to spray on the blue portion to save on decal paper. When dry the blue areas are masked and Klear applied to the tape edges.
Silver has now been applied to the underside, (not shown) masked and 'Kleared'
Above: Dark earth is next and, when dry, dark green is sprayed on freehand as I didn't want too hard a line between the two colours.
Above: Decals applied after a spray coat of Klear. I apply my decals over some Klear which is brushed on, decal slid over the top and then dabbed with a tissue; another thin cote of Klear is then brushed on and left to dry. When dry, you will find that the Klear has pulled the decal down over all the panel lines etc. As you can see I don't need to use any decal setting solution with this method.
Left: Here a watercolour wash has been applied to the panel lines, medium grey to the yellow areas and black/brown to the rest. A few drops of washing-up liquid is added to the watercolour to break the surface tension before application.
Right: The wash has been wiped off with a damp cloth (old tee shirt) in the direction of the airflow. The engines and cowlings have been fitted as well as the undercarriage and other bits.
A coat of Klear with matting agent added (Tamiya flat base) is now sprayed on to even out all the colours used and also to seal everything in.
Left: Unmasking of the canopy etc. is the next job and pastels of various colours are applied to the edges of panels around the engine and fuel filler caps as well as creating exhaust and oil stains. Aerial wires are now fitted and the small nose windows filled with Clearfix.
The finished item at last!
All images and text copyright - Glenn Ping
Glenn's Workshop
Glenn's Avro Anson shows what you can do with the right approach - why not have a go!
