Let's start by dispelling a few myths and legends about mixed media model kits, resins and vacs.
FAQ's
#1.
Q/ I only build injection moulded kits because I don't have the basic skills to do resin or vacforms or conversions.
A/ Whilst it's true that it's a different type of modeling, it is still nevertheless, modeling!
If you can take an early type of injected kit, build it and make it look something, then you can surely adapt those basic skills to your advantage by thinking about how you cured the build "problems".
Half the fun of doing something different is to quote a modern idiom "Thinking outside the box!"
With the right tools (more later) and some more thinking about basic problem solving, the art of converting a basic shape into the object of your desires becomes that much easier. So,in other words plan your project with more patience and don't rush into new territory until your satisfied you have the answers.
Don't be afraid of initial failure, start with a cheap and experimental project and be a little more adventurous in what you would expect the finished article to be. After all, there's plenty of cheap kits out there to explore!
Nothing ventured - nothing gained!
#2
Q/ The problem with a lot of vac kits is that I can't make the other parts like the wheels or cockpits etc.
A/ Considering that most modelers are 'hoarders' of some sorts, it's remarkable that some enthusiasts proclaim this 'problem'. What problem? Got a spares box? Bet you have! Problem almost solved.
Firstly, if your building a model of a certain subject, it's odds on favourite that you'll have some information on it.
Pictures, plans, magazine and internet articles and the like are freely available if you don't have them to hand.
Assemble as much information on your subject as you can afford, a lot of modelers spend more on references than the kit they're making - a constant 'curse' on the finances - but make an enjoyable pastime even more enjoyable!
For example, check out the wheels and see what kits you have in your stash or spares box that closely resembles the ones on your subject. A four spoke wheel which looks the right size can very easily have a plastic card insert easily shaped and fitted to make it look like a 'solid' wheel with very little effort.
A cockpit from a 'dead' project can be easily adapted after removal by a razor saw to say widen it slightly and the detail can be sanded off and replacement knobs and switches and pipes etc fashioned from plastic card and sprues. Undercarriage legs /fuel tanks etc. can also be adapted from old kit parts that you have lying around the place. Be inventive, what's to stop you experimenting and having some fun?
If you belong to a model club ask your competition secretary to have a 'What if' theme or ' Just for fun' or 'Anything goes' theme so that you can bring down your 'experiments'. You'll be amazed at the useful information exchanged between you all during and after the meeting. If you don't belong to a club, take a picture and ask people on the internet how they would cure the 'problem'. The chances are they've been through the barrier that your currently encountering and will be able to help you.
#3
Q/ O.K, that's all fine, but how do you actually BUILD the vacformed shapes to start with?
A/ Do you have a sharp craft knife? or an engraving cutter in your tool box? Do you have a pencil available?
If not, get them! The next stage. First,draw around the base of each shape as tightly as you can.
Get your cutting tool,and again,tightly scribe/cut around each shape two or three times and then work the shape up and down gently to prise away the part from the backing sheet.
With this done, you now need a sanding board. The favourite here is a commercially available coarse, medium and fine aluminium oxide finished sanding paper which is rugged and will not clog as easily as ordinary sandpapers do,and then fixed to some half inch plywood of the same size.
We recommend you affix a non slip surface to the base of these boards, and these are cheap and available from most DIY stores and will save a lot of potential trouble of your board moving whilst in use.
The removed part should then have the bottom or cut side which is to be joined, gently rotated over the surface of the papers until your satisfied that you've got rid of all of the surplus material down to the pencil line.
Start with the 'Coarse' then onto the 'Medium' and then the 'Fine'
Repeat until your happy with the condition of all of the surfaces.
Complete all of the parts using this method, all the time checking that both left and right surfaces meet perfectly and adjusting where required until they do.
Use the 'two rotations' method over each board to start with, and then adjust as required.
Don't get over enthusiastic and grind off too much! Little and often is the only way to achieve what is required.
DON'T RUSH IT....Be patient!!
It is easier to have all three boards available and to hand in your hobby area, if not, use just a 'medium' grade. You must hand finish the parts your sanding with fine graded paper regardless.
#4
Q/ I often find that the plastic on the shaped parts is way too thin and difficult to stick together.
A/ Where you find the plastic parts to be really thin,there are techniques to help keep the parts more rigid.
The really quick way is to use builders expanding/filling foams found in most comprehensive DIY stores.
To fill the spaces just do one side of each to start with. After the foam has hardened, sand to a level surface using the techniques previously mentioned and then any other smaller spaces are then filled with two part automotive body filler ready for glueing.
Before all of this is completed, don't forget to attach all of the inner items like the cockpit or wheel well bays unless you prefer to cut out the foam and fit and attach that way.
Alternatively, line one shape of the two equal parts with some plastic card strip along the shapes edge (you can cut your own here, 1mm suggested) which is stuck along the joining surfaces leaving 50% protruding width from the shape.
This now becomes the 'male' side allowing you to mate the now non-stripped 'female' shape to butt join into the other side ready for glueing and filling. Again,all you need is a little patience to perfect the art!
#5
Q/ So what is meant by a mixed media kit?
A/ A mixed media kit normally consists of plastic and/or PU resin and some metal parts.
The good news is that these kits will provide you with most of the key parts for the model.
Things like cockpits and canopies and undercarriages and wheels and other major parts are provided to make it a much easier build,and you can make as little or as much of the subject by adding or subtracting what parts you would like to see included.
Manufacturers these days are far more adventurous and clever with their designs than they've ever been.
Whilst at the same time leaving enough room for an enjoyable new challenge to modelers who wish to expand their repertoire of skills and impress not only themselves but their fellow peers!
Here are a few more points regarding equipment.
Tools:
1/You need a good selection of files, and cyanoacrylates (superglues) or two part glues to help fix the parts.
2/If you can afford it, a Dremel or similar type of rotary tool will pay no end of dividends in assisting the shaping of your parts.
3/Seek advice about using the tools & accessories before using, as it could destroy parts if used over enthusiastically!
Make sure you have plenty of spare craft knife blades and a good sprue cutter as well as a trusty Modelers Saw which will be very handy for trimming resin casting blocks.
4/A really good electric belt/disc sander can be obtained for less than U.S$100 and will save you no end of time grinding off surplus material. Remember, don't get too over enthusiastic with this tool, a gentle touch is often required when used!
5/Make sure you have a good range of pliers and a 'P' cutter/engraving tool is absolutely vital also!!
Filling materials:
Recommended fillers are:
Trade Name:
Milliput - comes in two types, normal (green) and fine (white). Two part mix, handy to use for larger seams.
P38 Car body filler - Easy sandable two part mix which sets very quickly and bonds very well with most mediums.
(Available in the U.K) Other countries: Ask your local automotive stockists if they can get it!
We would like to add that the information here is only general advice and of course is not totally inclusive of every possible technique available. Ask around if in doubt!
Don't be put off by perceived failure, be persistent and enjoy your new found skills.
Most of all, do be patient. If your time poor, what's the rush? Modeling is there to be ENJOYED!!
If you have any further questions you'd like to ask, write to us and we'll see if we can help you.
Hope it's been helpful?......................Happy modeling!!
Here are pictures of our latest prototypes built by ordinary modelers just like you!
Panther Productions 2000
Here's a good article about scribing your kits too! - Enjoy!!
